Aiming High: Rolex’s 2022 Novelties

By The Time Place Magazine

Focusing on optimism and innovation, Rolex presents new timepieces that push the boundaries of watchmaking.

One of the foremost brands in haute horlogerie, Rolex is certainly synonymous with quality. Through the years, the brand founded by Hans Wilsdorf has upheld the same promise of outstanding excellence, thanks to the company’s complete, in-house mastery of watchmaking.

For 2022, Rolex introduces its latest array of watches: the Oyster Perpetual Air-King, the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master in 18 ct yellow gold and the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date.

The Sky’s the Limit

From the early days of air travel, Rolex has been fascinated by flight and played an epic role in its development. This far-reaching relationship with the world of aviation, led to the creation of the Oyster Perpetual Air-King, which was inspired by the pioneers of aviation and the avid explorers of the skies. With its resolutely professional appearance in place since 2016, the timepiece benefits from a number of new features this year.

Completely redesigned, the 40 mm Oyster case of the new generation Air-King comes complete with a crown guard and straight sides. Guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres, it is equipped with a middle case crafted entirely from a solid block of Oystersteel, an alloy that is uniquely corrosion-resistant. Edged with fine fluting, the case back is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. Furthermore, the Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case.

Refreshed and more balanced, the black dial of the timepiece now features double digits on the minute scale, thanks to the addition of ‘0’ before the ‘5’. Now with optimised Chromalight, guaranteeing maximum legibility even in lowlight conditions, the Air-King’s hands and triangular hour marker are coated with a new luminescent material, exclusive to Rolex, chosen specifically for its longer-lasting and intense glow. Similarly, the 3, 6, and 9 numerals, which were previously made entirely from 18 ct white gold, are now also filled with this innovative material, making them visible even in the dark. The name ‘Air-King’ is retained on the dial, a feature that has been prominent since 1958, as well as the green seconds hand that symbolises the brand’s emblematic colour.

The new Air-King is equipped with the calibre 3230, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2020 and fitted on this model from 2022. Leading to the filing of several patents, Calibre 3230 offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability, and incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Calibre 3230 is equipped with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 3230 extends to approximately 70 hours.

The Air-King is fitted with the robust Oyster bracelet, now featuring the Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp to prevent accidental opening. The bracelet is also equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by the brand, which allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case.

Made for Travellers

Innovative and forward-thinking, the new Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II bears unexpected variations in its overall look. This year, the timepiece underwent a major design variation, as its crown and crown guard are now located on the left side of the case. With this shift on the case, the date aperture and the Cyclops lens have also been moved to appear at 9 o’clock, and a modification in the date disc was also necessary. Despite the significant changes, including the precision testing process for some of the final controls carried out as part of the Superlative Chronometer certification, the GMT-Master II remains a watch made for airborne adventure, connecting people beyond time zones.

Designed as a navigation tool for professionals flying all over the world, thanks to its bidirectional rotatable bezel and 24-hour graduated insert, the watch can display the time in two time zones simultaneously: either the local time and the reference time, or the local time and that of an alternative time zone. The date is synchronised with the local time. This unique and recognisable bezel, has been previously made with different colour combinations – the lower half symbolising daytime and the upper signalling night-time – as well as in single colour versions. For 2022, the timepiece features a novel colour combination on its bezel: green and black. With the moulded, recessed graduations and numerals coated with platinum via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition), the bezel can also be turned with ease thanks to its knurled edge, which offers excellent grip.

The foundation for all Rolex watches, the GMT-Master II has a 40 mm Oyster case, guaranteed waterproof to 300 metres, with a middle case crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel. Its crystal, fitted with a Cyclops lens for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the watch’s movement.

The latest GMT-Master II is equipped with calibre 3285, which provides it with approximately 70 hours of power. Entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, the movement was released in 2018 and introduced on the model that same year. Calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy.

To complete the timepiece, Rolex has fitted the GMT-Master II with an Oyster bracelet. The most universal bracelet in the Oyster Perpetual collection, the three-piece link bracelet is now enhanced with the Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening, as well as the Easylink comfort extension link.

To the Open Seas

Equally at home on and off the water, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master was launched in 1992. Imbued with the brand’s rich heritage in the world of sailing, the Professional-category timepiece is a perfect blend of functionality and nautical style. Recognisable for its bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel, complete with a Cerachrom insert with a raised graduation, the Yacht-Master is now available in stunning 18 ct yellow gold.

Previously offered in 18 ct white gold, this new version undoubtedly raises the visual appeal of the timepiece. The 42 mm Oyster case in 18 ct yellow gold now not only serves as the waterproof housing of the watch movement and dial, it is also undoubtedly the main attraction. Add to that the middle case, which is similarly crafted from a solid block of 18 ct yellow gold, and Rolex has a definite winner on its hands.

The precious material also makes up the bidirectional rotatable bezel, fitted with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in matt black ceramic. To facilitate its turning, the bezel has a knurled edge, which offers excellent grip. A black lacquer dial contrasts with the yellow gold of the case, and features hour markers and hands filled with a new proprietary luminescent material. With a longer-lasting intense glow, this material allows the display elements to have a brighter hue even at daytime.

Calibre 3235, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, powers the watch. Released in 2015, and fitted on this model since its launch in 2019, calibre 3235 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Fitted with an optimised blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy, the movement is equipped with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor and a power reserve of up to 70 hours.

Developed and patented by Rolex, an Oysterflex bracelet, made of flexible curved metal blades overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer, accompanies the Yacht-Master 42. To enhance comfort, the inside of the Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with longitudinal cushions. The Rolex-designed, patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp in 18 ct yellow gold completes the bracelet, which is also fitted with the Rolex Glidelock extension system.

Bold and Blue

Enveloped by prestige and innovation, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate, in addition to the date, the day of the week spelt in full. Launched in 1956, the timepiece is recognisable due to the arc-shaped window that displays this novel feature at 12 o’clock.

This year, the Oyster case of the Day-Date 40 is crafted of 950 platinum, a material known for its luminosity and captivating white glow. For the first time, the watch is enhanced by an attractive fluted bezel, which previously was only featured on Classic models made of 18 ct gold. Though a beautiful material, platinum is challenging to work with, especially when it comes to finishing. However, as a leader of haute horlogerie, Rolex was undeterred by the challenges posed by the usage of platinum. Instead, it created a new manufacturing process to facilitate the production of the iconic fluted bezel in 950 platinum.

Complementing the sparkle of the waterproof Oyster case is a cool, ice blue dial, which is protected by scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating. Fitted on the crystal is a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date. This new version of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with calibre 3255, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was unveiled on the model in 2015, complete with a 70-hour power reserve.

The Day-Date 40 features a President bracelet, also made from 950 platinum, which includes an elegant concealed folding Crownclasp and ceramic inserts inside the links to enhance its flexibility and longevity. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case.

Like all Rolex watches, these new releases from the brand are covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolised by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

#ReadAnywhere the latest issue of The Time Place Magazine

READ NOW